A Few Days in Tamga
Travelling without a bicycle seems like a new thing for me. Chasing a bus or any other cheap public transportation seems like another challenge to me. Planning to get to places that are difficult to reach without spending much money is hard, since I’m so used to have the freedom to reach to those places just by pushing the pedal of my bicycle. Good thing is, this time I’m travelling with a friend. Anselm, my friend from Germany who lived many years in Malaysia enjoying the heat of the tropical weather, now travelling with me for a few days. We had a plan to go south to Osh after visiting the beautiful lake of Songkul, but a plan is just a plan. We don’t really want to stick to it. We discovered that going to Osh takes 2 days from where we were and we don’t want to spend so much time inside a marshrutka or shared taxi. We want to spend more time breathing fresh air since Anselm only have a few days here. So we changed our plan to visit a small town in southern part of Issykul, Tamga which is only a few hours away.
We reached Tamga with a warm welcome by a guesthouse owner, an old but still smiling Kyrgyz woman and her husband. She speaks very good English and cook very good food. Her husband, Askar doesnt speak English but he looked straight into my eyes while talking to me. Studying his face and body language, this man seems very interested to talk to me, to share many things with me but we are limited by our language barrier. He seems an interesting person and I regret that I still couldnt pick up both Russian and Kyrgyz language. While having our meal, the French solo female traveller, Amber that we met earlier in Songkul came and joined us in the guesthouse from her one day trip to southern part of the country. It was good to have another companion. We then decided to travel together for a few days.
This is the second time I traveled to Issykul Lake but never been to this part of the lake. Tien Shan mountain splits into two on the eastern part of the lake… hugging the whole lake and connect again near the Chong-Kemin valley to the west. So this time, we decided to explore the beauty of the Tien Shan mountains on the southern part of Issykul lake. It was interesting, as we first went to Fairy Tale Canyon near Tosor village. Its really like in a fairy tale, where we saw some jawdropping view of landscapes made out of red clays and sandstones… except that there is no multiple rainbows since its very sunny. The shape of these stones really look like a group of animal, lizard, snake, dragon and some parts of it looks like the great wall of China! How amazing to think that these stones were carved by the natural sculptor, the blowing wind for thousands of years. The whole canyon took us about half a day to discover.
After spending half a day exploring the Fairy Tale canyon, we then went back to our hostel in Tamga for a good rest. The next day we went to Barskoon waterfall, a nice small waterfall hiding quietly inside a beautiful alpine forest. The hike was easy, only took us a few minutes to get to the beautiful waterfall but there were not much water on the fall. Summer was really dry in Kyrgyzstan this year. Since I arrived Bishkek last July, it only rained twice, about half an hour each. Rest of the days were hot, dry and dusty. The sky doesn’t really cry a lot anymore in this part of the world nowadays. The locals predict one thing, they say this coming winter, it really gonna be a bad one, which means, the winter will be really cold this time. I could do nothing when I heard it, except just blinked my eyes and swallowed my own saliva. I really need to be prepared, if I really want to dwell in the high mountains this coming winter… The dark cold winter days will come here soon and nowhere I can run. The mountainpass in the southern Pamir already been covered by snow now. And thats the only road for me towards the west, towards the sunset.